Spring is not only the aromas of awakening nature, but the freshness of rain and thunderstorm. So that you can enjoy them and not eliminate the effects of rain in the form of puddles and dammed places, you should install rain showers at your summer cottage, or, more simply, drainage gutters with grates to drain rain and melt water. They are made from plastic, concrete and polymer concrete.

It should be noted that separately installed rainfalls will not be as effective as you might imagine if you don't get the right roof drainage system in place. It sounds a little complicated, so we will tell you about the sequence of installing a rain drain from your summer cottage.

Let's start with the roof. Horizontal gutters are installed on its edges so that water flows into them. Roof gutters close into a closed circuit in one (or several, depending on the roof area) from the corners of which a funnel is installed. It is the top of a vertical trough (riser) into which rainwater flows. At the end of the riser, a knee is most often installed. From it, water enters the rain collector, from which it flows directly into the rain grooves. Considering that water gets into them not only from the roof, but also from the paths and the lawn, then there will certainly be sand and particles of earth in it. To prevent the grooves from clogging, a sand trap is installed at the end of their line. After that, the water is sent to float freely into a common sewer pipe or a specially equipped depression, from where it is subsequently pumped out by a pump. We will not consider this point in detail, since the final point of water discharge is determined by specific conditions.

Now let's move on to the specifics of the arrangement of the drainage system. This is an engineering system, therefore, it requires a diagram (sketch) on which the lines of the gutters will be drawn. We will start the path of the passage of water from the rain collector, which is located under the riser of water from the roof.

The rain collector is equipped with a grate to contain debris, leaves, and there is also a special basket inside it, into which small particles of debris fall, which penetrate through the grate. The elbow of the vertical riser must be installed in such a way that it is as close as possible to the grate of the rain collector, but at the same time there must be enough space to remove the grate and take out the basket. By the way, the rain collector also has a direct connection to the riser. This is a useful feature if you are concerned about minor splashes and running noise.

As we noted above, from the rain collector, water enters the storm grooves, which we will talk about in detail. The gutter is placed in a pre-dug trench. The width of the trench should be 20 cm greater than the width of the grooves to be laid (10 cm on both sides), and the height should be 10 cm greater than the height of the gutter. It is also important to take into account the height of the road (sidewalk) covering of your site, since the gutters should be laid 3-5 mm lower so that they are not damaged by traffic and walking. In addition, if you have a flat area without a slope, then it should be artificially provided while digging a trench. If the drainage line will be twisted, we recommend placing grooves and a sand trap in it before final preparation of the trench to make sure that the calculations are correct and correct the length if necessary. They are marked with directional arrows so that you do not make mistakes when laying and joining grooves. To move on the bends of the line, the downpours have side drainage points on the side - you just need to make a hole along the marked line and insert a gutter into it. After that, the grooves can be removed from the trench and proceed to the next step.

In order not to be mistaken with the level of laying the gutters, we advise you to use the fittings and the cord tied to it. You should focus on the level of the cord and use the level.

After preparing the trench, its bottom should be compacted with a crushed stone-sand mixture and immediately start assembling the system. You should start from the end, that is, from the sand trap. It, like the rain collector, is equipped with a grate and basket for collecting sand and other particles. It, like the gutters, is laid 3-5 mm below the level of the topcoat. Then they begin to lay the gutters. The grooves must be evenly laid, therefore the walls must be checked with a level and, if necessary, corrected with a mallet (rubber-headed hammer).

So that the walls of the gutters do not deform at any of the stages of installation, it is advised to install gratings on them. For now, they should not be fixed, but it is better to wrap them in plastic so as not to get dirty.

If there is free space at the edges of the trench, between the groove wall and the topcoat, then at the end of the work, sealant is poured into it. The joints should also be sealed.

After all that has been done, you can fix the gratings.

Once again, we repeat the sequence of laying storm drains:

• Dig a trench taking into account the slope
• Seal the bottom with crushed stone-sand mixture
• Install sand trap
• Install rain gutters
• Seal the edges of the trench between the sidewalk and the walls of the gutters
• Seal seams
• Fasten gratings

These were the basic tips for installing rain gutters. In addition to gutters and a sand trap, our online store offers a wide selection of everything you need - crushed stone with sand, fittings, level, cord, sealants (bituminous, elastic and any from the "Standartpack" company), etc.

“Domino” wishes you all of best!